Archive for ‘Skirts’

May 1, 2012

Part 1: The Maxi Skirt

Pattern: Self drafted

Fabric: Unknown jersey from the free bin at school

Notions: None

Time To Complete: After drafting, 20 minutes

Notes:

As much as I love the look of a maxi dress or skirt, I’ve never considered wearing one. At 5’1, it’s not only been impossible to find one in stores that would fit me but it’s also been in grained in me that they are only flattering on taller beauties. So when I teamed up with Ina, from SkyTurtle, to make an item we wouldn’t normally wear, I knew a maxi dress was mine! In case you missed my inspiration, I was after a sleeveless knit max with a scoop neck, razor back, and flare at the hip. I wanted something form fitting but still casual. Although I chose to self draft my dress, Jamie Christina’s Mission Maxi Dress Pattern would have been the ticket.

While at school one day working on my maxi dress draft, I spied this grey blue jersey in the free bin. It was a much more appropriate weight than the knit fabric I had brought for my muslin so I chose to use it instead. Knowing that I had ordered some fabric online especially for this project, I didn’t give much thought to testing out new methods of binding necklines and armholes on the muslin.

The following week, my fabric arrived and I was so excited. I ordered two different options from Gorgeous Fabrics: a shimmery chevron and a bold swirl. I figured between the two there would be an appropriate option but I was sorely disappointed. The shimmery chevron, to put it lightly, is tacky. From the pictures you have no idea just how shimmery we’re talking but it’s not the sort of thing that day dresses are made of. The bold swirl could work but I didn’t like the way the poly/lycra clung rather than skimmed the body. In all fairness, they are really lovely textiles but I couldn’t bring myself to cut into them when I knew they weren’t what I was after.

At the eleventh hour, I decided to salvage my maxi dress muslin. I sliced it off at the waist and made a double fold waistband. While it’s not a complete failure I wouldn’t call it a success. It’s nothing like the gorgeous skirt Ina made! My main complaint is that it just doesn’t go in my wardrobe. I had an awful time putting an outfit together and it seemed like every idea I had my closet couldn’t provide. I actually think this could look quite nice with a thin white tank top but amazingly I don’t own one! Instead, I settled for this white shirt I made last fall. It works but I do feel like I have a lot of fabric on.

For the pictures I had this lovely idea of a wind swept beach background. The reality versus fantasy when taking photos still cracks me up. I imagined myself as a sea goddess thrown amongst barnacle festooned rocks. A graceful Venus arriving at the shore…

In actuality, a day at the beach looks a bit more like this:

March 9, 2012

2. Magnolia

Pattern: Self drafted

Fabric: Wool blend gabardine and bemberg rayon from fabric.com

Notions: 1 zipper and fusible interfacing

Time: An afternoon

Notes:

I’ve been trying to decide what to call this color. Is it teal? Is it turquoise? I don’t know but I love it! I actually think it’s a seasonless color and I expect to be able wear this skirt long after spring has passed. The fabric’s color changes depending on the light – it’s more green in the shade and more blue in the sun – which made it rather difficult to find matching thread and zipper.

Speaking of fabric – this is probably the worst quality yardage I have ever worked with. It’s labeled as a wool/poly blend but at times it felt more like rattan. While working with it, it splintered, split, and shredded. It would stretch out of shape despite staystitching and it was so weak that I couldn’t even consider ripping out stitches.  I had my doubts as to whether it would look okay on but somehow it pulled itself together at the last-minute and made a great looking skirt. I have a feeling the bemberg lining had something to do with it. 

The skirt is self drafted. From my sloper, I dropped the waist and drafted a 2″ contoured waistband. I shortened the hem to the same height as my grey mini skirt (JCrew) and then drafted a lining with a jump pleat (also known as a bagged lining). All darts were removed making it a very straightforward sewing job. Once I had everything cut and interfaced, it came to together in less than an hour. If you’re looking for a similar pattern, try In House Pattern’s A New York Mini. The pattern as written is unlined but you could always add one if desired. 

Have you ever wondered what would happen if you installed a normal zipper as you would an invisible one? Seriously stupid maneuver. I had it in my head that I’d purchased an invisible zipper and couldn’t for the life of me figure out why I couldn’t stitch closer to the teeth. It wasn’t until I tried the thing on that I realized the head was facing the wrong way. That’s right, the pull is facing towards my body. Unfortunately the fabric was so frail there was no turning back and I’m just grateful that I can still zip it up this way. You can see the zipper tape just a hair but from far away it’s really not bad.

I couldn’t help but include a close up of my new shoes. Since my spring palette is so bold, I figured a pair of cream colored shoes would keep bright outfits from overwhelming me. I had my eyes on a different pair and went to Nordstrom’s to try them on but when I saw these Born’s I knew they were the ones.

Overall, I’m very happy with the outcome and I know I’ll be wearing this skirt all spring. I can’t wait to start pairing it with my spring blouses and tops!

November 3, 2011

3. The Contemporary Batik

For me, the most difficult part of maintaining a sewing blog is getting my picture taken. Some days (or in this case, weeks) I just don’t feel like being in front of the lens. I think this photo captures this perfectly.

I realized yesterday afternoon that if I didn’t get some photos of this skirt to post, I might never post about it. Since completing this skirt two weeks ago, I’ve sewn three more garments – all of which I’d like to show you. So, without further delay….

Pattern: self drafted

Fabric: Silk/Cotton Print from Gorgeous Fabrics, lined with silk habotai

Notions: invisible zipper, hair canvas, silk organza, and petersham ribbon

Cost: approx. $30

The skirt is a simple design to showcase the linear pattern. I cut two rectangles and then pleated them for added volume. The waistband is cut straight with a petersham ribbon on the inside – a technique I learned from Lynda Maynard. It makes the most comfortable straight waistbands! You can give it a try with this tutorial from Interweave press.

One thing that I’m not thrilled about – this skirt is susceptible to static cling. I was surprised by this considering that the self-fabric is a cotton/silk blend and the lining is silk. It was so bad one day that I broke down and bought a box of snuggle dryer sheets at the laundrymat. After wiping down the skirt with one, I stunk but at least my skirt wasn’t riding up!

June 23, 2011

Another Sorbetto…

I kid you not, I wore my black sorbetto three times last week. The cotton batiste combined with the extra ease made it the perfect top for the hot days we’ve been having. I decided to make up another version yesterday and wore it today with the blue skirt from last week. Here are the details for both.

June 16, 2011

One, Two…


Let me introduce to you the first two pieces for my fall/winter wardrobe – a green a-line skirt with a center button placket and a black cotton batiste shell with an inverted pleat. I’m beyond thrilled to have a start on my thirty pieces. Details are beyond the cut.

May 22, 2011

Delphinium

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