Archive for ‘Pants’

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April 18, 2012

4. Bougainvillea

Pattern: Iris from Colette Patterns

Fabric: Red wool twill from the remnants bin at Stone Mountain Daughter Fabrics

Notions: Interfacing, invisible zipper, some scrap rayon for the pockets

Time to Complete:4 – 5 hours

Notes:

I was pretty excited when I heard that Colette Patterns was releasing a shorts pattern for spring. I had it downloaded, printed, and assembled within hours of their announcement! Alright, so it doesn’t have a fly zipper but the shorts looked so cute on the model that I didn’t care. I’ll admit, when I first finished these I was a little underwhelmed. I don’t know what it was but they just didn’t thrill me. However, after wearing them for a day, I’m in love! They are so comfy but still flattering that I wouldn’t hesitate to make them again.

Once I had the pattern assembled, I went about choosing the size I would cut. In Colette world, I am a perfect size 10 below the waist (30 1/2″ waist and 40 1/2″ hip), however, the finished garment measurements were more important to me. The Iris shorts come with 1/2″ ease at the waist. I went to my closet and measured some of my favorite shorts with a higher rise and found that none of them cut it this close. Most had 1 1/2″ to 2″ of ease so I cut a size 12 (finished waist measurement was 32 1/2″). I was a little concerned that this would leave me with too much room in the hips but I figured that I could shave off some from this pair and then grade the pattern for later makes. In the end, this wasn’t necessary as the shorts fit almost perfectly!

Construction went so quickly! Over the course of a few days, I assembled these in small spurts. I figure it took me no more than 5 hours to cut and sew these shorts. I’m really happy with my sewing overall. I’ve struggled in the past to get a smooth waistband and this is probably the closest I’ve come. Everything will be perfect until I go to topstitch the facing down. When I finish the waistband warps and shifts and looks so terrible. There’s a little bit of wrinkling but nothing more than many of my RTW shorts. I think I may be finally gaining some finesse with fabric rather than torturing it!

I didn’t stray from the instructions too much on this project. However, I did try something new on the crotch seam. The instructions have you clip the curves before finishing the seam but, frankly, I’ve never seen a pair of RTW shorts with clipped seam allowances there. Once again, I went to my closet and pulled a pair of shorts out that have really lovely construction. I studied the way these were made and did the following:

  • I trimmed the seam allowance to 3/8″
  • Serged
  • Understitched to one side of the pants.

This worked perfectly! Sure, you can see a small row of stitching on the right side if you’re looking closely but it’s actually rather nice looking. The best thing is, the seam is perfect and there are no wrinkles around the curve. Now the seam is beautiful and stronger!

I also tried out a coverstitch for my hem. You heard me right – coverstitch. No, my little Singer serger doesn’t have the capability but my brand new serger does! I’ve been in the market for a new serger for a while now and I finally took the plunge this week. I’ll tell you more about it in a separate post but it’s been a game changer. I have seams on these shorts finished with my old one as well as the new and it is night and day. I’m left to wonder how it took me so long (alright, so not that long) to upgrade.

I know several of you are making these shorts right now. How’s your progress going?

Posted in Garments, Garments, Pants, Spring Wardrobe Challenge 2012 | 57 Comments »

November 4, 2011

4. A Different Short

Pattern: Scallop Hem Shorts from Pattern Runway

Fabric: Cotton gauze from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics and some silk habotai scraps for the pocket bags

Notions: Invisible zipper and silk organza for interfacing.

Cost: Approximately $10

When I first started thinking about the pieces for my Winter Wardrobe Challenge, I had played around with the idea of making winter shorts to pair with tights. Originally, I wanted these to be very structured and made from a highly textured fabric. However, the fabric I ordered for this project turned out to be much heavier than I had anticipated and my vision was getting farther and farther away from me.

While looking around for some inspiration, I stumbled upon these beauties from Leifsdottir and I knew my shorts needed to be floaty and ethereal!

Although the ruffles are charming, I don’t (and didn’t) think my hips would appreciate the added attention. I still wanted to keep the overall effect though and  decided a cotton gauze would give me the texture I desired without the added weight.

As far as modificiations go,  I took about an inch/inch and a half off the crotch length. This seems to have solved my biggest complaints from my first pair but I still think I should go back and cut a smaller size.  For a unique touch, I decided to draft my own waistband which can be tied at the side. It’s a little hard to see with the black fabric but hopefully this picture gives you a better idea.

Although the shirt isn’t included in my challenge garments, it is made by me.

Pattern: Self-drafted with the help of the lovely Miss P (see tutorial here)

Fabric: Rayon challis purchased last summer at Fabric.com

Cost: Around $4

This shirt is quickly becoming my best friend! I call it my not-a-t-shirt-t-shirt. Although the rayon challis is a woven fabric, it drapes like a jersey but the greatest thing is it doesn’t cling like one! It’s also incredibly soft and just keeps getting softer with each wash. I will definitely be buying and using more rayon challis in the future.

I used a double needle for the hem and the sleeves. The neck is a bias-band edge that I learned from Lynda Maynard (page 26 if you happen to have her book). This is the first time that I’ve this technique it in a garment. The sewing isn’t perfect by any means but I think next time around it will look really professional. Also, I think I’ve finally convinced myself to take the time to properly staystitch. I staystitched the neckline on this shirt but I did it in one line rather than moving from the center to the shoulder like I’ve been taught. You can see the ripples on the left side that are a result of my improper technique.

Winter is approaching fast and the light is fading with it! Hopefully you can look past my noisy photos!

Posted in Garments, Pants, Winter Wardrobe Challenge 2011 | 13 Comments »

September 10, 2011

Scallop Hem Shorts

I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned you but my latest project took much longer than I had originally anticipated. I was so excited about my Kimono Sleeve Dress that I purchased three more patterns from Pattern Runway – the scallop hem shorts, the sundress, and the shirt. I got right to work on the scallop hem shorts and when I say “right to work” I even skipped the muslin!

Pattern: Pattern Runway’s Scallop Hem Shorts - $9.50

Fabric: cotton twill remnant purchased at Britex – $6

Notions: invisible zipper – $2

Notes:

I cut out the pieces on Monday and started in on the back welt pockets. I thought that these would be fairly straight forward since I’ve made bound buttonholes before but I just couldn’t get them right. After turning the first welt, the welt backing was facing the wrong way so I cut out the pieces again. No matter how many times I read the instructions through the welt backing was still backward. I decided to continue going forward but my brain was fried and I couldn’t figure out how to attach the pocket. I put the project away for the evening, hoping that my brain would solve the problem in my sleep. It didn’t. But I decided to fake my way through it and give the pocket my best shot. This approach worked and I was able to move forward.

After the welt, the project was more comprehensible and I slowly finished it up on Thursday. Unfortunately, I’m just not thrilled with the results. These pictures are, sadly, more flattering than the shorts in person and there are both fit issues and sewing issues.

Fit

  • The crotch length is way too long. I could shorten it a good two inches in the front and possibly the same in the back if I lengthened the crotch depth as well.
  • I would cut a medium rather than a large and then give myself a little bit of breathing room in the waistband.
  • The center front bags. I’m not sure how to fix this. Perhaps cutting a smaller size or taking up the crotch length will help but any suggestions are welcome!

Sewing

  • This fabric wrinkles like crazy. Combine that with the ill fit and it makes for a really sloppy look.
  • The waistband was sewn well and the seam was really smooth until after I added the facing and secured it. You can see how the seam bunches and waves and it drives me nuts. I’m really at a loss as to why. It’s mostly in the front and is really bad near the sides.

The instructions, overall, were good. I contacted Sarah at Pattern Runway about the welt pocket and she said that she has a tutorial  in progress. There were two small issues that I wanted to note as well. First, the pattern pieces for the waistband do not mention cutting interfacing but the instructions (and experience) do. Second, when sewing the side seam together, there is a typo. It notes a 1cm seam allowance but converts that as 1/4″ not 3/8″.

Although the finished garment is less than thrilling, I really like the scallop hem. I would have thought that drawing attention to the largest part of my thigh would be a bad thing and I’m surprised at how flattering it is. I do plan to make another pair – maybe in a woolen for winter – so hopefully these pattern changes will help. Any and all advice is welcome!

 

Posted in Fall Wardrobe Challenge 2011, Garments, Pants | 12 Comments »

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