Archive for ‘Fall Wardrobe Challenge 2011’

January 6, 2012

Outfit: Putting It All Together

I’ve received a lot of positive feedback on my outfit posts and I’d like to make them a weekly feature here at A Good Wardrobe. This week, I chose to pull a look from both of my 2011 wardrobe challenges. You’re familiar with this blouse, I’m sure, but the skirt is one of my first blog creations and you may have missed it. I’m such a sucker for vibrant greens and this skirt is perhaps my favorite tone! I’ve heard that the human eye is capable of distinguishing more shades of green than any other color – just look what pops up on pinterest when you type in “green“. Amazing!

September 30, 2011

Wrap Up: Fall 2011 Wardrobe Challenge

I can’t believe the deadline has arrived, but my Fall 2011 Wardrobe Challenge is over! Although I don’t consider it a failure, I only managed to put together eight pieces out of my proposed thirty. Where did I go wrong?

  • No clear theme

Although I had the best intentions, I only managed to make one theme post. Even with that theme in mind, I wasn’t clear how I wanted to incorporate that theme into my wardrobe. The next challenge is going to have a clearly defined theme with a plan of how to incorporate it into each of the pieces.

  • Too many pieces

Honestly, thirty pieces is way too many for me. I can’t imagine bringing in that many pieces because each time I made an item, I was amazed at how it opened up my closet. It was also too difficult for me to plan for this many pieces and because of this, my motivation took a major hit. For the next challenge, this number is going to be greatly reduced and I’ll work up to more pieces later.

  • A complicated palette

Although I loved my palette, it was difficult to find fabrics (especially considering how many yards I needed for thirty pieces) that were in my budget and fit into my vision for particular garments. While I’m still learning,  I’ll gather fabrics before deciding the palette or pick a simpler palette to work from.

  • Restricting usage of commercial patterns

Since I was enrolled in a patterndrafting class, I wanted to utilize my new knowledge and (originally) restricted myself to self-drafted patterns. Unfortunately, I miscalculated how far I would be in the program and kept waiting to make certain projects until I had the ability to draft the items (for example, blouses). Instead, I chose to work on projects outside of the challenge. This is a serious reason why I only made a few garments. Next time, there won’t be a a restriction on the types of patterns I use.

I’ll be unveiling my next challenge on Monday and I can’t wait to share it with you. I hope to take what I’ve learned here and make this next challenge a success!


September 10, 2011

Scallop Hem Shorts

I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned you but my latest project took much longer than I had originally anticipated. I was so excited about my Kimono Sleeve Dress that I purchased three more patterns from Pattern Runway – the scallop hem shorts, the sundress, and the shirt. I got right to work on the scallop hem shorts and when I say “right to work” I even skipped the muslin!

Pattern: Pattern Runway’s Scallop Hem Shorts - $9.50

Fabric: cotton twill remnant purchased at Britex – $6

Notions: invisible zipper – $2

Notes:

I cut out the pieces on Monday and started in on the back welt pockets. I thought that these would be fairly straight forward since I’ve made bound buttonholes before but I just couldn’t get them right. After turning the first welt, the welt backing was facing the wrong way so I cut out the pieces again. No matter how many times I read the instructions through the welt backing was still backward. I decided to continue going forward but my brain was fried and I couldn’t figure out how to attach the pocket. I put the project away for the evening, hoping that my brain would solve the problem in my sleep. It didn’t. But I decided to fake my way through it and give the pocket my best shot. This approach worked and I was able to move forward.

After the welt, the project was more comprehensible and I slowly finished it up on Thursday. Unfortunately, I’m just not thrilled with the results. These pictures are, sadly, more flattering than the shorts in person and there are both fit issues and sewing issues.

Fit

  • The crotch length is way too long. I could shorten it a good two inches in the front and possibly the same in the back if I lengthened the crotch depth as well.
  • I would cut a medium rather than a large and then give myself a little bit of breathing room in the waistband.
  • The center front bags. I’m not sure how to fix this. Perhaps cutting a smaller size or taking up the crotch length will help but any suggestions are welcome!

Sewing

  • This fabric wrinkles like crazy. Combine that with the ill fit and it makes for a really sloppy look.
  • The waistband was sewn well and the seam was really smooth until after I added the facing and secured it. You can see how the seam bunches and waves and it drives me nuts. I’m really at a loss as to why. It’s mostly in the front and is really bad near the sides.

The instructions, overall, were good. I contacted Sarah at Pattern Runway about the welt pocket and she said that she has a tutorial  in progress. There were two small issues that I wanted to note as well. First, the pattern pieces for the waistband do not mention cutting interfacing but the instructions (and experience) do. Second, when sewing the side seam together, there is a typo. It notes a 1cm seam allowance but converts that as 1/4″ not 3/8″.

Although the finished garment is less than thrilling, I really like the scallop hem. I would have thought that drawing attention to the largest part of my thigh would be a bad thing and I’m surprised at how flattering it is. I do plan to make another pair – maybe in a woolen for winter – so hopefully these pattern changes will help. Any and all advice is welcome!

 

September 1, 2011

Feeling Good in Your Skin

Pattern: Kimono Sleeve Dress from Pattern Runway, $9.50

Fabric: 4 ply silk crepe purchased at Satin Moon Fabrics in San Francisco

Notions: 1 shank button from stash, silk organza for interfacing

Cost: I’m embarrassed to admit this but about $120

Notes:

Like I said yesterday, this is my favorite finished garment to date. It was so satisfying to make and even more satisfying to wear. This is the type of dress that makes your feel good in your skin. Here’s the low down on the process:

Since I did a run through with muslin last week, there weren’t any surprises this time around. I can’t say enough good things about Pattern Runway’s products. The assembly of the pattern was made really easy with little paper ledges and graph lines. The instructions were straight forward with diagrams where needed. If you get stuck there is also a tutorial on the blog that has step by step pictures. This project has really changed my mind about print at home patterns and I already have plans to make the sleeveless sundress before fall gets here.

I made an error in judgment by cutting out the pattern late Friday night. The combination of poor lighting and a tired seamstress could have ended in disaster but (thankfully) I only fouled up in cutting the skirt portion. One of the edges was off kilter when I went to examine it the next morning and I spent some time pulling threads trying to get the pieces on grain. I’m so thankful that I decided to cut the length as printed because otherwise I wouldn’t have had length to sacrifice.

In addition to not cutting at midnight, I’d lay out some cotton flannel underneath to give me better control. The fabric isn’t as shifty as charmeuse or chiffon but it isn’t as stable as cotton either. I didn’t have any flannel so I chose to use pins in lieu of pattern weights, my normal method. The pins added some bulk in places so the cut wasn’t accurate. This didn’t affect the garment though.

Although most of this was mentioned in yesterday’s post, I’m going to repeat it here so that it is all in one place. I used a 2.6mm stitch for construction with Mettler mercerized cotton thread. I finished the seams by hand overcasting using silk thread and blanket stitch. I chose a braided no-roll elastic which was heavy enough to hold up the skirt. For the hem, I used my machine blind stitch. Although the average person won’t notice, you can see the prick stitches on the right side. If I were to use this fabric again, I would blind hem by hand.

To interface the facings, I decided to go with silk organza. I wanted the crispness without interfering with the drape and it came out as desired. If you’d like a sleeve that is less pronounced at the top, you might consider using a silk georgette for the sleeve facings.

I varied from the given instructions in two places. One, I reinforced the underarm with a row of stitching an 1/8″ from the seam line at the curve and then clipped the curve. Two, when I overcast the sleeve facings I took a few prick stitches along the way to anchor the facing because, even with the understitching, it kept peaking out. Other than that my construction followed that of Pattern Runway’s.

The dress feels so good on and is really comfortable to wear. Any wrinkles from sitting down are quickly released within a few minutes of standing. The style is great for both day and evening wear with a quick change of accessories and shoes. Depending on the culture, it could also be work appropriate. Just imagine it with a belted waist, some sensible shoes, and a blazer! I have a feeling that I’m going to be living in this dress.

 

August 26, 2011

WIP: Pattern Runway’s Kimono Sleeve Dress

Oona convinced me to take a leap and order the Kimono Sleeve Dress from Pattern Runway. I spent Wednesday printing (ran out of ink, of course), cutting, and taping together the pattern. I really appreciated the printed grid and the paper edges that aided in the taping process. This was something that I hadn’t experienced with the free Burda and Colette patterns that I’ve printed at home. I also spent some time reading through the instructions and looking through the tutorial.

Yesterday, I cut the dress from muslin and ran through the construction. I hope you can forgive the dark photos but I finished as the sun was setting.

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Pretty much any fabric is more flattering than muslin, thankfully! Looking past the fabric, though, the overall form is nice. I was expecting to have to make some alterations but I’m so pleased with the muslin’s fit that I don’t think I’ll change anything. Although my hips and bust were a perfect size Medium, my waist is closer to a Large. Due to the elastic waistband, however,  I resisted cutting the size Large and I’m glad that I did. There’s a lot of ease in the design and I wouldn’t want more fabric around my hips or bust. If I were really picky, I would shorten the pattern at the armhole to accommodate my petite height. Comparing my muslin with the garment on the dress form (here), the proportions seem about right though. Given this, I’m going to proceed without alteration. There is a chance that I’ll end up raising the hem but I don’t see any harm in cutting the pattern as is and see how the drape affects the length (and the appearance on me).

Although I won’t be making any adjustments, I’m glad that I made a muslin. I mentioned that I’m going to be cutting this from my precious 4 ply silk and I can’t begin to tell you how nervous I am. I feel like a fraud working with such amazing fabric and I’d really hate to ruin it. I keep telling myself that I’ve purchased ready to wear that was more expensive than this fabric and then never wore the garments so ruining this fabric can’t be any worse.

I’d like to take the project slowly and keep notes on my experience so that others who are working with this pattern (or 4 ply silk) might benefit. I haven’t found any other bloggers (or burda members) who have written about this dress – if you have, please let me know. I’d love to see your finished project and read about your experience. Happy weekend, all!

August 15, 2011

WIP: Blouse with Gathering

A quick peak at a shirt based on a recent school assignment. I’ll be away from the computer for a few days but when I return I’ll show you the finished garment!

August 13, 2011

WIP: Faux Yoke with Button

Another project from my dart manipulation section that I’d like to take further. I used an example from Harriet Pepin’s book that brings the control vertically to the central front. From there a faux yoke is drafted along with the square neckline. It’s rather youthful and would look darling as a sundress but I’m also thinking that it could look really nice as a pinafore in wool.

August 10, 2011

WIP: Cowl Neck

This is another muslin from my school projects last week. The cowl neck is cut on the bias and was one of my favorite dart manipulation exercises. I’ve always loved the look of a cowl and would like to include something like this in my fall wardrobe. I think it would look lovely in a silk print.

August 8, 2011

WIP: Blouse with Gathering and Keyhole Neck Opening

I’ve been busy this week working on my dart manipulation projects. In the past few days I’ve drafted seven examples and sewn up six! I wanted to share with you my personal design with gathering above the bust. Although it looks a bit poofy in muslin, I think with a suitable fabric it could drape quite nicely. I plan on dropping the gathers (an inch?) and the neckline (a touch?).

Originally I wanted the top to be sans-closures so I drafted a simple keyhole opening at the back neckline. That should actually read “tried to draft” – I wasn’t exactly sure what a keyhole opening should look like but I knew I wanted to cut the majority of the back on the fold. I decided to pivot the shoulder dart to a few inches below the center neckline so that the center back tilted at an angle at the top. Does this make any sense? I just read that sentence over and I’m not sure I even understand it! Anyway, it ended up leaving me with a peak at the base of the keyhole which is understandable. I think next time I want a keyhole opening, simply cutting a straight slit should work fine enough.

However, now that I have the muslin sewn, I’m considering adding a button placket to the back and using button loops to close the garment. This would allow me to have a close fitting back that would offset the blouse-y front. This largely depends on the material I plan on using, of course. What do you think?

July 30, 2011

Evaluating My Closet

What a week! If I had known what I was in store for, I would have saved my mental vacation. Between a back-breaking work week and my school work, I’ve had it. Since I have very little new to show you, I thought I’d go through my closet and pull some garments that I expect to use in my fall wardrobe.

From left to right: a black skirt from JCrew, black jersey dress by She-Bible, grey tweed jacket by Tabitha, blue silk habotai camisole from JCrew.

Fairly straight forward garments but I think they’ll mix nicely with the ones I have planned. I’ve had the majority of these pieces for quite a while and for the most part they’ve held up. I need to get the jacket cleaned to see if it will pop back into shape. The arms have definitely stretched out and it looks a little sloppy at the moment.

In other news, I’m working hard on my class projects in the hopes of using my own patterns for my fall blouses. My deadline is looming though and I’m definitely feeling the crunch! This week has been all about dart manipulation and I hope to have everything drafted and sewn by the end of next week. I should have some progress pictures for you on Monday.

Hope you enjoy your weekend!

 

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