Archive for February 27th, 2012

February 27, 2012

Patterns and Plans

I was struck down last weekend by the dreaded stomach flu and then by a case of lethargy that lasted until this weekend. Although I didn’t manage to get in any blogging done, I did spend some time sewing (or rather drafting). Several of you asked in my last post whether I’d be using self drafted or commercial patterns so I thought it was time to give you some more details on where I’m headed with these garments.

Before I get started, I want to take a moment and thank Alexandra once again for such an amazing guest post. I love that she arranged the assessment chronologically and I’ll admit I had never given much thought to the order that I go about making alterations. I think it will help me from feeling overwhelmed and drastically cut down the time I spend assessing a garment! If you enjoyed her post, be sure to check out her blog where you find more great tips and tutorials on fit!

Now for some plans:

Pants

  • Clover from Colette Patterns – I’m both nervous and excited to make pants. Since I’m unsure if they’ll be flattering, I don’t want to spend too much on fabric. My first fabric purchase had some lovely yellow stretch herringbone twill yardage but unfortunately I was notified that it was sold out a few days later. I’m still hunting around for a similar fabric but I’m having doubts that I’ll find some especially in my budget.

Skirt

  • Self Draft – I realized I haven’t used my skirt sloper in ages so I’ve dusted it off and drafted a straight mini skirt. I’ll be using a teal wool blend gabardine purchased online. I was pleasantly surprised that the fabric was the exact color I’ve been looking for but unfortunately it has a terrible feel to it – really plastic-y. Yuck! Luckily I’m planning on adding a lining attached at the hem with a jump pleat and I think this will make the skirt more comfortable to wear.

Blouse

  • Self Draft – For this garment, I’m on the hunt for a lightweight silk with the same hue as my wool gabardine but in a lighter shade. (Am I using my color terminology correctly here? I tried at least.) I’d like sleeveless blouse with a flare at the bust that extends to the hem. The back will feature a keyhole opening to add a little detail to the otherwise plain garment. It should be something airy and perfect for those late spring days.
  • Self Draft – Last summer I made a sleeveless blouse from cotton lawn while studying dart manipulation at school. The front features a yoke with gathering at the bust with a simple back. It’s been well loved and I’d like to make another one but this time with tencel jersey. I’ve never drafted for a knit fabric so I expect a bit of a challenge!  Although the front has more details, I think it will be the back that gives me the most trouble.
  • Banksia Blouse from Megan Nielsen – I made up a muslin two weeks ago for this blouse and am having a horrid time fitting it. The first muslin correction focused on shoulder seam placement and high dart. I’m rather perplexed by this dart – if you look at the blouse on the model you’ll notice that the dart is high on her as well. I know others have mentioned something similar with the Darling Ranges Dress so perhaps it is intentional but I’ll admit that  I can’t figure out why it would be drafted this way. Is there a reason for having the legs and apex higher than the actual bust? Out of curiosity I contacted Megan so we’ll see what she has to say on the issue. Anyways… the second muslin corrected the back armhole length (lengthened at the cross back) and shortened the waist. Even after all this work, I’m left with a very uncomfortable garment and I’m about to pull another Truffle and draft the thing myself. I’ve decided that I wouldn’t regret purchasing the pattern because Meghan does include two ways to add a button placket and I’ve been wanting to know how to do this for a while now.

Once I have the patterndown I plan to make two versions:

    1. A sleeveless version in the linen fabric I purchased recently. By the way, I was extremely happy with this purchase. The background is more pink than I had been expecting but the print is lovely and it’s a very nice linen. I’ve washed it once and it already started to soften so I only expect it get more comfortable. I have enough of this to make more than one garment.
    2. A long sleeved version in red. I’d love to find a silk and/or cotton fabric for this.

Dress

  • Self draft –  I’m planning on drafting a sleeveless, knee length dress for the rayon challis that I’ve purchased. The bodice will have a curved v neckline with gathering at the waist and shoulders. A curved waistband will give way to a gathered skirt. The rayon is nice with a good drape so I expect it to behave well with this plan, however, the colors weren’t quite what I was expecting. The purple is more dominant than the other colors and the dark pink is less of a red than I had anticipated but I’ll still use it. I’d be singing a different tune if I’d been planning a blouse or skirt (something that needed to pair well) but since dresses are rather autonomous, I’m not too worried that the colors aren’t perfect.

Wild Card

  • I’m purposefully waiting on this one until the majority of my garments are completed. I’d like to see what would help tie the collection together so perhaps a jacket or a cardigan. Who knows!

 

That was a bit long winded but there you have it – my spring wardrobe plans. I know many of you are working on similar plans – how is your planning going?

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