Pattern: Pattern Runway’s Sundress
Fabric: 2.5 yards of black silk noil and 1 yard of black silk habotai from Dharma Trading
Notions: 14 inch invisible zipper (should have made it longer like the pattern suggested)
Total Cost: about $40
Notes:
I picked this pattern up after my success with Pattern Runway’s kimono sleeve dress. I had hoped to bust out a version in vintage gingham before the weather turned but time snuck past me and we ended up with early rain. Rather than wait until next summer, I decided to go against the instructions and use a medium weight silk noil. It has that distinctive silk scent like a cup of earthy black tea. The finished product reminds me of Russian sarafans and I plan to layer it over long sleeved blouses this winter.
In accordance with my challenge, I’ve chosen to focus on texture for this dress. Silk noil is made from the short fibers leftover after spinning. It has a nobby texture that resembles an old pilled sweater. I anticipate the rough hand pairing nicely with a smooth fabric like charmeuse but today I’ve layered it with a sheer chiffon.
Having a short torso, I know I have to make adjustments in the bodice for princess seamed garments. Despite knowing this, I was ansy to get started and decided to skip the muslin. As expected the bodice has some fit issues. I was able to bring in the side seams at the underarms to prevent gaping but I really should have taken off 1/2″ of length at the waist. In addition, the back armholes could loose 1/2″ at the shoulders. Since I plan on layering this, I’m not too concerned but if when I sew this next summer in a lighter fabric I’ll need to make these changes. If you plan on making this yourself, the good news is you won’t have to make the entire thing in muslin. I recommend just cutting the bodice and the waistband since the skirt is gathered and, as such, is more forgiving to small changes. 
Overall, I really enjoyed working with this pattern. As with the other Pattern Runway garments, the instructions were great and everything went together quickly. I used my serger to finish the seams even though the bodice is lined; the silk noil unravels and I was worried about those princess seams. Speaking of which, the princess seams that extend into the skirts pockets are adorable and I love the gathering detail. My one complaint, and it’s a relatively easy fix, is that the zipper is exposed inside. We went to all this trouble to line the garment and the zipper really should be sandwiched in between the lining and the self fabric.
Next up… Burda 09/2011 #128. I have it on the table ready to cut!
