I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned you but my latest project took much longer than I had originally anticipated. I was so excited about my Kimono Sleeve Dress that I purchased three more patterns from Pattern Runway – the scallop hem shorts, the sundress, and the shirt. I got right to work on the scallop hem shorts and when I say “right to work” I even skipped the muslin!
Pattern: Pattern Runway’s Scallop Hem Shorts - $9.50
Fabric: cotton twill remnant purchased at Britex – $6
Notions: invisible zipper – $2
Notes:
I cut out the pieces on Monday and started in on the back welt pockets. I thought that these would be fairly straight forward since I’ve made bound buttonholes before but I just couldn’t get them right. After turning the first welt, the welt backing was facing the wrong way so I cut out the pieces again. No matter how many times I read the instructions through the welt backing was still backward. I decided to continue going forward but my brain was fried and I couldn’t figure out how to attach the pocket. I put the project away for the evening, hoping that my brain would solve the problem in my sleep. It didn’t. But I decided to fake my way through it and give the pocket my best shot. This approach worked and I was able to move forward.
After the welt, the project was more comprehensible and I slowly finished it up on Thursday. Unfortunately, I’m just not thrilled with the results. These pictures are, sadly, more flattering than the shorts in person and there are both fit issues and sewing issues.
Fit
- The crotch length is way too long. I could shorten it a good two inches in the front and possibly the same in the back if I lengthened the crotch depth as well.
- I would cut a medium rather than a large and then give myself a little bit of breathing room in the waistband.
- The center front bags. I’m not sure how to fix this. Perhaps cutting a smaller size or taking up the crotch length will help but any suggestions are welcome!
Sewing
- This fabric wrinkles like crazy. Combine that with the ill fit and it makes for a really sloppy look.
- The waistband was sewn well and the seam was really smooth until after I added the facing and secured it. You can see how the seam bunches and waves and it drives me nuts. I’m really at a loss as to why. It’s mostly in the front and is really bad near the sides.
The instructions, overall, were good. I contacted Sarah at Pattern Runway about the welt pocket and she said that she has a tutorial in progress. There were two small issues that I wanted to note as well. First, the pattern pieces for the waistband do not mention cutting interfacing but the instructions (and experience) do. Second, when sewing the side seam together, there is a typo. It notes a 1cm seam allowance but converts that as 1/4″ not 3/8″.
Although the finished garment is less than thrilling, I really like the scallop hem. I would have thought that drawing attention to the largest part of my thigh would be a bad thing and I’m surprised at how flattering it is. I do plan to make another pair – maybe in a woolen for winter – so hopefully these pattern changes will help. Any and all advice is welcome!
