August 10, 2011
This is another muslin from my school projects last week. The cowl neck is cut on the bias and was one of my favorite dart manipulation exercises. I’ve always loved the look of a cowl and would like to include something like this in my fall wardrobe. I think it would look lovely in a silk print.
August 9, 2011
As I move my way through my patternmaking course, I’ve been browsing vintagesewing.info (I use Way Back Machine to view it since it has been down) for drafting vintage inspired garments. Although in the past I’ve been happy to view these books online, lately I’ve been wishing I had hardcopies.
On vintagesewing.info I’ve fallen in love with Harriet Pepin’s Modern Pattern Design and have used her instructions on skirts and dart manipulation. Although an original copy will set you back a pretty penny, The Center for Pattern Design has reprints available for $55 and I’m seriously considering purchasing it when I get the spare cash.
I’d also like to start looking for some originals in my area and I’d like to keep a running list of recommended titles with me. What are your favorite vintage patternmaking books? Where have you had luck finding them? Used bookstores? Flea markets? Estate sales?
August 8, 2011
I’ve been busy this week working on my dart manipulation projects. In the past few days I’ve drafted seven examples and sewn up six! I wanted to share with you my personal design with gathering above the bust. Although it looks a bit poofy in muslin, I think with a suitable fabric it could drape quite nicely. I plan on dropping the gathers (an inch?) and the neckline (a touch?).
Originally I wanted the top to be sans-closures so I drafted a simple keyhole opening at the back neckline. That should actually read “tried to draft” – I wasn’t exactly sure what a keyhole opening should look like but I knew I wanted to cut the majority of the back on the fold. I decided to pivot the shoulder dart to a few inches below the center neckline so that the center back tilted at an angle at the top. Does this make any sense? I just read that sentence over and I’m not sure I even understand it! Anyway, it ended up leaving me with a peak at the base of the keyhole which is understandable. I think next time I want a keyhole opening, simply cutting a straight slit should work fine enough.
However, now that I have the muslin sewn, I’m considering adding a button placket to the back and using button loops to close the garment. This would allow me to have a close fitting back that would offset the blouse-y front. This largely depends on the material I plan on using, of course. What do you think?
August 1, 2011
I’ve been swatching!
This is mostly for my own records but perhaps you’ll find it interesting:
On 3.0 mm needles in stockinette stitch, I’m getting a gauge of 25sts X 34rws = 4″.
On 2.5 mm needles in lacy rib, I’m getting a gauge of 28sts X 33rws = 4″
I’m not sure I’ll be using the lacy rib but I do like the look of it. I’m going to swatch a few more edge ideas and then decide.